Review: Bruno Clair Gevrey-Chambertin Clos des Fonteny 2022

Bruno Clair's 2022 Gevrey-Chambertin Clos des Fonteny demonstrates why this monopole Premier Cru remains one of the producer's most distinctive and compelling offerings. From this enclosed single-vineyard plot nestled on the northern edge of Gevrey, Clair has crafted a wine that brilliantly captures both the warmth of the 2022 vintage and the underlying finesse of this special terroir.

In the glass, the wine displays a captivating transparent ruby core deepening to garnet edges, with remarkable clarity and luminosity characteristic of traditionally crafted Burgundy. The color suggests perfect ripeness without excessive extraction—a hallmark of Clair's measured winemaking approach.

The nose immediately impresses with its aromatic complexity and precision. Fresh red cherries, wild strawberries, and ripe raspberry notes establish the fruit framework, while sophisticated layers of forest floor, crushed rose petals, and delicate spice provide intriguing counterpoints. With air, more profound elements emerge—minerality reminiscent of wet stones, subtle hints of truffle, and that quintessential Gevrey iron-tinged earthiness. There's a beautifully integrated note of fine oak that enhances rather than masks the wine's intrinsic character.

On the palate, the 2022 vintage reveals itself through remarkable concentration balanced by vibrant energy. Medium to full-bodied, the wine delivers impressive textural richness without heaviness. The tannins are refined and silky yet provide substantial structure that speaks to the wine's aging potential. What distinguishes this bottling is the perfect equilibrium between the generous fruit of the vintage and the inherent elegance of the site—power and finesse coexisting in harmonious balance.

The finish is extraordinarily persistent, gradually transitioning from pure fruit to more nuanced savory and mineral notes that linger with remarkable clarity. A subtle saline quality on the finish enhances the wine's refreshing character despite its concentration.

While showing beautifully even in its youth with proper decanting, this 2022 Clos des Fonteny has the structure, balance, and depth to evolve gracefully over the next 12-15 years, gradually revealing more complex tertiary dimensions as the primary fruit recedes.

Bruno Clair continues to demonstrate his profound understanding of his family's historic holdings with this exceptional Premier Cru offering. The 2022 Clos des Fonteny brilliantly showcases why this enclosed vineyard deserves its reputation as one of Gevrey's hidden treasures—a wine that expresses the perfect balance between power and elegance that defines the finest expressions of this storied appellation.